Simon started playing aged 10, together with his family (Brothers Jack and Zebedee make their living exclusively from teaching bridge), and was soon playing at club, county then national level. Simon represented England as part of the Under 25 squad, partnered with both brothers in turn. On completing a degree in Classics from Trinity College, Oxford, Simon began teaching bridge at the London School of Bridge, and then at The Acol Bridge Club with Andrew Robson. In 1995, Simon started the Andrew Robson Bridge Club in partnership with Andrew, establishing it (with help from brother Zebedee) as the world’s most successful bridge club. Simon left in summer 2000, pending the arrival of his son Max, and now teaches in London, the Cotswolds, and the Caribbean. In 2004 Simon played bridge on top of Kilimanjaro at a height of 19,335 feet.
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Friday, April 11, 2008
Double- Overview
CONTENTS:
1. HISTORY
4. REQUIREMENTS
5. RESPONSES
6. REDOUBLE
1. HISTORY:
When Auction bridge began around the turn of the century, as a development from whist, whether in Puna, India or from a Russian game called 'biritch' (or both simultaneously) we can never be certain. Milton Work had developed his well-known point system (4 for an Ace, 3 for a King....) as a way of evaluating balanced hands, although it was loosely applied. Three suits guarded and twelve or more points was considered enough to open One Notrump, although some reduced this to no more than an ace and a king and a lot of hope. One such man was R.F. Foster, a prolific writer on whist, auction bridge and mah-jong. Of him it was said that at a pinch he would even dispense with the Ace.
One evening in 1910 Foster, later known as The Grand Old Man of Bridge, was playing against a Colonel Patton, who was becoming increasingly irritated with Foster's light openings and suggested to his partner, "The next time Foster opens One Notrump, if I have a good hand I'm going to double. If you have a five-card suit, take me out" and so the take-out double was born.
Wilbur C. Whitehead, a leading American writer of the time was attracted to the idea and within two years the double of One Notrump had become a standard convention. He also developed, on his own initiative the double of one-of-a suit for take-out. These informatory doubles, as they were known, came under attack from many quarters, "a cheat's charter", "no better than rubbing your nose to show you hold a good hand and these were some of the more polite, but withstood early criticism and became a recognized feature of the game.
sourced: The Bridge Player's Bedside Book - G. Hervey
sourced: The Bridge Player's Bedside Book - G. Hervey
2. TAKE-OUT DOUBLE
Doubling an Opponents suit bid is a Take-out Double.
- provided partner has not made a positive bid.
- even on the 2nd, 3rd or even 4th round of bidding.
- even at the level of two, three or even four.
The Take-out Double demands a positive bid from partner.
Partner must take-out the Double.
- provided partner has not made a positive bid.
- even on the 2nd, 3rd or even 4th round of bidding.
- even at the level of two, three or even four.
The Take-out Double demands a positive bid from partner.
Partner must take-out the Double.
3. PENALTY DOUBLE
Doubling an opponent's Notrump bid is always for penalties.
Partner should pass.
Double of an opening 1NT bid shows 15+ points any shape (16+ with no good lead).
Partner should nearly always pass.
Partner should pass.
Double of an opening 1NT bid shows 15+ points any shape (16+ with no good lead).
Partner should nearly always pass.
Doubling an opponent's suit bid is only for penalties if partner has made a positive bid.
Double - Of - No - Trumps = DONT bid partner
TAKE-OUT DOUBLE
4. REQUIREMENTS
5. RESPONSES
6. REDOUBLE
4. REQUIREMENTS
There are three requirements: S - O - S
S - Shortage (0,1,or 2 cards in the opponent's suit)
O - Opening points at least
S - Support for all unbid suits
♠ A 10 6 5
♥ K 10 9 5
♦ 5
♣ A Q 4 3
Your opponent opens 1♦. You have the perfect hand for double, satisfying all three requirements (S - O - S)
N.B. 1
Overcall a good 5-card major suit in preference to double.
(An overcall shows between 6-18 points).
N.B. 2
All hands with 19+ points should double first, whatever their shape. There are also many hands with fewer than 19 points that are too strong to risk a simple overcall (this might be passed out resulting in a missed game).
Jump Overcalls always show six cards, either 12-16 points (traditional) or weak jump overcalls with 5-10 points and a good suit (cutting edge and 50 times more frequent).
N.B. 3
Hands with 4-3-3-3 shape, 12-14 points should Pass.
Hands with 4-3-3-3 shape, 15-18 points should Double with no stopper and bid 1NT with a stopper.
Hands with 4-4-3-2 shape, 12-14 points should only Double with the doubleton in the opponent's suit. Otherwise Pass.
N.B. 4
If Opponents have bid two suits Double usually shows 5-4 shape, often five cards in the unbid minor and four cards in the unbid major.
N.B. 5 WARNING
While Double usally shows a 3-suited hand with 12-18 points, (5-4-4-0 shape, 4-4-4-1 shape, 5-4-3-1 shape, or 4-4-3-2) or any hand with 19+ points, experts also Double with 12+ points and two-suited hands with 5-4-2-2 shape. "This is called Equal Level Conversion." The five card suit must rank higher than the doubleton, so that when your partner takes out your double into your doubleton suit, you can bid your five card suit without raising the level of the bidding, hence Equal Level Conversion.
N.B. 6
When you are in the protective position (i.e. if you pass the auction is over), you can double for take-out on fewer points, essentially 'borrowing' a king from your partner's hand:
1♦ - Pass (partner) - Pass - You?
You can Double here with as few as nine points (borrowing a king from partner). Remember partner could have passed 1♦ with 12-14 points and a hand-shape unsuitable for doubling.
You can overcall 1NT in the protective position with fewer points (11-14 points or so - although experts play it as wide-ranging as 10-15 points). It does NOT promise a stopper in the opponent's suit. Balanced hands with 16+ points can't overcall 1NT in the protective position, so must double first.
5. RESPONSES
YOU MUST RESPOND.
0-8 points - Bid longest suit at lowest level
9-11 - Bid longest suit with a jump
12+ - Bid game in longest suit
Do not bid opponent's suit
Prefer to choose a suit.
Avoid Notrumps unless you've stoppers and no shape.
1NT promises 6-9 points, stopper(s) and no other option.
Look for any eight-card major suit fit first.
Bidding opponent's suit is forcing (for one round only n.b.)
DONT FORGET TO JUMP A LEVEL WITH 9+ POINTS.
Partner's message is clear, please choose any suit (except the opponent's)
♠ 9 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4 2
♣ 10 3 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
Respond 1♠.
You must bid - if you pass, the final contract will become 1♦ Doubled. This will make with overtricks, as your partner is short in diamonds.
1♦ - Double (partner) - 2♦ - You?
Pass.
The opponent's 2♦ bid has cancelled the double - there is no need for you to bid. If you choose to make a free bid you would promise some values (6+ points).
♠ K 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4 2
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
You would still respond 1♠ (0-8 points)
1♦ - Double (partner) - 2♦ - You?
Respond 2♠
You are now longer obliged to bid, but you have enough to make a free bid - all your points are working well, and partner looks to have at most one diamond (as the opponents have an 8-card fit).
♠ K Q 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
DO NOT respond 1♠ (0-8 points) - you could have zero points for this bid.
You must jump to at least 2♠ (9-11 points)
Your nine points look particularly juicy: all your points are in the right places (no wasted values in ♦s), your fifth spade is gold dust and your doubleton heart will undoubtedly be useful. It would not be wrong to bid 3♠ or even 4♠ (this would be my choice - imagine partner has: (a minimum hand)
♠ A 6 3 2
♥ A 8 6 5
♦ 2
♣ A 10 7 3
and you could make 12 tricks by playing for the opening bidder to hold the Queen of Club: after trumping 2 diamonds in the short trump hand and then drawing trumps, your losing heart could be thrown on the fourth club).
Changing the hand by one card....
♠ K Q 8 7
♥ 9 3 2
♦ 8 7 4
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
Just bid 2♠ (9-11 points). Your hand has one fewer spade,so one winner fewer and with one more heart it has one more loser. Beware the 4-3-3-3 shape - the worst possible pattern.
6. REDOUBLE - WARNING
If an opponent doubles the opening side, responder should bid as normal with one important addition:
1. The 1st priority (as ever) is to support partner with 4+ cards.
2. The 2nd priority is to Redouble with 10+ points and no fit.
3. Bid normally with 6-9 points.
SUPPORTING PARTNER (after a Double): WARNING
a) Experts use 2NT after a Double to show a good raise to at least 3 of partner's suit: i.e. 4-card support with 10+ points.
b) This allows a direct raise to 3/4 of partner's suit to be used pre-emptively with shape and few points - a key distiction.
c) Likewise a raise to 2 of partner's suit can be bid on fewer points - even none. Sometimes just with three card support.
DO NOT REDOUBLE WITH SUPPORT
Redouble says two things:
1. We have the majority of the points.
2. We have no fit.
With no fit and more points it could be possible to take the opponents for a LARGE penalty.
The perfect redoubling hand would mirror the doubler's shape:
♠ A 10 7 6
♥ 2
♦ Q 9 8 7
♣ K 10 5 4
1♥ (partner) - Double - (You) ?
Redouble! Even with a good nine points - you have the perfect lead (partner's singleton) and good intermediates.
AFTER THE REDOUBLE: WARNING
A. OPENING SIDE - the Opener and Redoubler
- see 2 and 4 below
Your side has the majority of the points:
- either you must double them for penalties.
- or continue bidding.
B. DOUBLING SIDE
- see 1 and 3 below
Your side has the minority of the points:
- try and find your best fit at the lowest level.
- you may well get doubled - don't panic.
1. Doubler's partner:
Pass - leaving partner to choose a suit.
Bid a suit - with marked preference, holding:
- four cards in a major.
- five cards (usually) in a minor.
- 1NT (rare) - usually double stopper in their suit.
2. Opener:
♠ A 10 6 5
♥ K 10 9 5
♦ 5
♣ A Q 4 3
Your opponent opens 1♦. You have the perfect hand for double, satisfying all three requirements (S - O - S)
N.B. 1
Overcall a good 5-card major suit in preference to double.
(An overcall shows between 6-18 points).
N.B. 2
All hands with 19+ points should double first, whatever their shape. There are also many hands with fewer than 19 points that are too strong to risk a simple overcall (this might be passed out resulting in a missed game).
Jump Overcalls always show six cards, either 12-16 points (traditional) or weak jump overcalls with 5-10 points and a good suit (cutting edge and 50 times more frequent).
N.B. 3
Hands with 4-3-3-3 shape, 12-14 points should Pass.
Hands with 4-3-3-3 shape, 15-18 points should Double with no stopper and bid 1NT with a stopper.
Hands with 4-4-3-2 shape, 12-14 points should only Double with the doubleton in the opponent's suit. Otherwise Pass.
N.B. 4
If Opponents have bid two suits Double usually shows 5-4 shape, often five cards in the unbid minor and four cards in the unbid major.
N.B. 5 WARNING
While Double usally shows a 3-suited hand with 12-18 points, (5-4-4-0 shape, 4-4-4-1 shape, 5-4-3-1 shape, or 4-4-3-2) or any hand with 19+ points, experts also Double with 12+ points and two-suited hands with 5-4-2-2 shape. "This is called Equal Level Conversion." The five card suit must rank higher than the doubleton, so that when your partner takes out your double into your doubleton suit, you can bid your five card suit without raising the level of the bidding, hence Equal Level Conversion.
N.B. 6
When you are in the protective position (i.e. if you pass the auction is over), you can double for take-out on fewer points, essentially 'borrowing' a king from your partner's hand:
1♦ - Pass (partner) - Pass - You?
You can Double here with as few as nine points (borrowing a king from partner). Remember partner could have passed 1♦ with 12-14 points and a hand-shape unsuitable for doubling.
You can overcall 1NT in the protective position with fewer points (11-14 points or so - although experts play it as wide-ranging as 10-15 points). It does NOT promise a stopper in the opponent's suit. Balanced hands with 16+ points can't overcall 1NT in the protective position, so must double first.
5. RESPONSES
YOU MUST RESPOND.
0-8 points - Bid longest suit at lowest level
9-11 - Bid longest suit with a jump
12+ - Bid game in longest suit
Do not bid opponent's suit
Prefer to choose a suit.
Avoid Notrumps unless you've stoppers and no shape.
1NT promises 6-9 points, stopper(s) and no other option.
Look for any eight-card major suit fit first.
Bidding opponent's suit is forcing (for one round only n.b.)
DONT FORGET TO JUMP A LEVEL WITH 9+ POINTS.
Partner's message is clear, please choose any suit (except the opponent's)
♠ 9 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4 2
♣ 10 3 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
Respond 1♠.
You must bid - if you pass, the final contract will become 1♦ Doubled. This will make with overtricks, as your partner is short in diamonds.
1♦ - Double (partner) - 2♦ - You?
Pass.
The opponent's 2♦ bid has cancelled the double - there is no need for you to bid. If you choose to make a free bid you would promise some values (6+ points).
♠ K 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4 2
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
You would still respond 1♠ (0-8 points)
1♦ - Double (partner) - 2♦ - You?
Respond 2♠
You are now longer obliged to bid, but you have enough to make a free bid - all your points are working well, and partner looks to have at most one diamond (as the opponents have an 8-card fit).
♠ K Q 8 7 4
♥ 3 2
♦ 8 7 4
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
DO NOT respond 1♠ (0-8 points) - you could have zero points for this bid.
You must jump to at least 2♠ (9-11 points)
Your nine points look particularly juicy: all your points are in the right places (no wasted values in ♦s), your fifth spade is gold dust and your doubleton heart will undoubtedly be useful. It would not be wrong to bid 3♠ or even 4♠ (this would be my choice - imagine partner has: (a minimum hand)
♠ A 6 3 2
♥ A 8 6 5
♦ 2
♣ A 10 7 3
and you could make 12 tricks by playing for the opening bidder to hold the Queen of Club: after trumping 2 diamonds in the short trump hand and then drawing trumps, your losing heart could be thrown on the fourth club).
Changing the hand by one card....
♠ K Q 8 7
♥ 9 3 2
♦ 8 7 4
♣ K J 2
1♦ - Double (partner) - Pass - You?
Just bid 2♠ (9-11 points). Your hand has one fewer spade,so one winner fewer and with one more heart it has one more loser. Beware the 4-3-3-3 shape - the worst possible pattern.
6. REDOUBLE - WARNING
If an opponent doubles the opening side, responder should bid as normal with one important addition:
1. The 1st priority (as ever) is to support partner with 4+ cards.
2. The 2nd priority is to Redouble with 10+ points and no fit.
3. Bid normally with 6-9 points.
SUPPORTING PARTNER (after a Double): WARNING
a) Experts use 2NT after a Double to show a good raise to at least 3 of partner's suit: i.e. 4-card support with 10+ points.
b) This allows a direct raise to 3/4 of partner's suit to be used pre-emptively with shape and few points - a key distiction.
c) Likewise a raise to 2 of partner's suit can be bid on fewer points - even none. Sometimes just with three card support.
DO NOT REDOUBLE WITH SUPPORT
Redouble says two things:
1. We have the majority of the points.
2. We have no fit.
With no fit and more points it could be possible to take the opponents for a LARGE penalty.
The perfect redoubling hand would mirror the doubler's shape:
♠ A 10 7 6
♥ 2
♦ Q 9 8 7
♣ K 10 5 4
1♥ (partner) - Double - (You) ?
Redouble! Even with a good nine points - you have the perfect lead (partner's singleton) and good intermediates.
AFTER THE REDOUBLE: WARNING
A. OPENING SIDE - the Opener and Redoubler
- see 2 and 4 below
Your side has the majority of the points:
- either you must double them for penalties.
- or continue bidding.
B. DOUBLING SIDE
- see 1 and 3 below
Your side has the minority of the points:
- try and find your best fit at the lowest level.
- you may well get doubled - don't panic.
1. Doubler's partner:
Pass - leaving partner to choose a suit.
Bid a suit - with marked preference, holding:
- four cards in a major.
- five cards (usually) in a minor.
- 1NT (rare) - usually double stopper in their suit.
2. Opener:
Double - with a suitable holding in their suit (you are looking for a penalty - PRIMARY GOAL)
Pass - partner, the redoubler, MUST bid again - you can not let them play Undoubled.
Bid - only with a hand unsuited for defending, often weak one-suited hands with few aces (KQJxxx, KJxx, xx, x)
3. Doubler:
Trust your partner's choice of suit, and try to escape at the lowest level. Your opponents are on the warpath - they have told you they have the points and that the hand is a misfit. Try and bid confidently and quickly.
If partner Passes, bid your longest suit at lowest level. Try and bid confidently and quickly.
4. Redoubler:
Double - (with a suitable holding in their suit).
Pass - but only if partner has another chance to bid. This would be FORCING. Remember you can not let them have the contract undoubled. If neither of you is able to double for penalties (much harder if the opponents escape at the 1-level) or they find a good fit you must bid on to at least 2 of opener's original suit.....
Bid - If unable to double or pass (see above)
VULNERABILITY is often a key element - four figure penalties are not uncommon against vulnerable opponents. Although a difficult area, the key is to remember that the Redouble initiates a situation to relish, "Let's take the opponents for a big penalty, because we have all the points and no fit".
Your side either has to play the contract or double the opponents (who have fewer points and hopefully no 8-card fit). Both partners in the bidding sequence (after one of them has redoubled) have the option to make a 'FORCING PASS' - obviously provided partner has another chance to bid.
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Simon Stocken | April 19, 2008 2:45 PM
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